Ever since the Middle Ages, Bologna has been referred to as “la
grassa,” which literally means “the fat.”
This moniker is a reference to the rich food culture in Bologna, which
was already famous throughout Europe as far back as the 1300s, perhaps even
further.
“Grassa,” of course, is not a reference to the fat content of the food
here, but instead the abundance, variety, and high quality of the cuisine. In the Middle Ages, this was quite the
compliment for any city, since the richness of the food culture suggested
all-around economic prosperity.
The culinary culture is tied quite strongly to the University of
Bologna, the Alma Mater Studiorum.
Because of the Studiorum and its centrality within the culture of the
city, Bologna is also referred to as “la dotta,” or “the learned.” This famous university, founded in 1088, has
long attracted illustrious students to Bologna from all over the world.
During the Middle Ages, a student had to come from a rich family to
attend university, and many students from around Europe brought with them
scores of servants, among them cooks. As
a result of these foreign cooks and their different methods of cooking,
Bolognese cuisine gradually took on a new flavor, incorporating elements from
nearby European cultures.
Without the prestigious university, Bolognese cuisine would not have
developed as strongly as it did, and without the rich culinary tradition, the
university would not have become so well renowned. In this city, education and cuisine are
locked together in a symbiotic relationship that has been in place for a
millennium and still remains strong today.
by D.R.
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